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Vacherin d'Abondance



Vacherin d'Abondance is a creamy cheese with a pinkish crust and an almost sweet taste. It is made in France, in the village of Abondance, in the Abondance valley close to the Swiss border.

It's made in the winter from unpasteurised milk from the breed of cows known as Abondance.

Rennet is added to milk fresh from the cows; the milk is not heated at all, but allowed to sit and coagulate for 90 minutes. Then the curd is ladled into a 10 inch (25 cm) wide round mould lined with linen.

The cheese is let stand for a day to drain, then turned out of the mould. The cheese's circumference is then encased with a strip of bleached, sanitized spruce.

The cheese is next moved into a cellar and put on wooden shelves to age for 20 days, during which time it's turned and washed every day.

[Ed: This cheese may be extinct as of 2005.]

Cooking Tips

Vacherin d'Abondance can be spread, or eaten from the casing with a spoon.



History Notes

The cheese has been made since the early 1800s. A main producer of it in the second half of the 1900s was the Gagneux family. The last person in the Gagneux family to make it was Célina Gagneux, who stopped making it in 2005 at the age of 73. By most reports, she was the last person who knew how to make it.


In 1992, new EU hygiene directives decreed that production of cheeses had to happen in a "proper" dairy. When directives came into force in 1995 the small producers said the new requirements would put them out of business. A clarification of the directive, however, showed that traditional, raw-milk cheeses made by small producers were in fact exempt.

Literature & Lore

Mme Gagneux said: "When I was a girl, there were 30 people or more who made Vacherin in this valley. Now they've all died or stopped. They make the Abondance cheese, a firmer cheese, because that's what the big buyers want. How can you blame them? Abondance is also a very fine cheese. But our Vacherin was wonderful, with a style and taste of its own. Now, perhaps, there will never be another one made. It's a pity, but there it is." [1]


"Mrs Gagneux, who was taught to make Vacherin d'Abondance by her mother-in-law 50 years ago, is resigned to taking its secrets to her grave. 'My daughters don't want to do this because the work it (sic) too hard. After me there won't be any more.' " [2]

Sources

European Commission. Lack of maturity in cheesy yarn. Press watch division. November 2005. Retrieved April 2006 from http://ec.europa.eu/unitedkingdom/press/press_watch/latest_en.htm.


[1] Lichfield, John. The death of a cheesy tradition. London: The Independent. 1 August 2005.

[2] Willsher, Kim. EU hygiene regulations threaten traditional French cheeses. London: Daily Telegraph. 10 July 2005.

See also:

Soft Cheeses

Añejo Cheese; Añejo Enchilado Cheese; Banon Cheese; Boilie Cheese; Bonchester Cheese; Boursin Cheese; Brie Cheese; Brillat-Savarin Cheese; Brousse de Brebis; Bruss Cheese; Burrata Cheese; Caboc Cheese; Camembert Cheese; Casu Marzu; Chaource Cheese; Chèvre Frais; Cornish Yarg Cheese; Crottin de Chavignol Cheese; Crowdie Cheese; Cumulus Cheese; Edel de Cléron Cheese; Feta Cheese; Feuille d'automne Cheese; Garrotxa Cheese; Hoop Cheese; Kirkham Lancashire Cheese; La Tur Cheese; Lancashire Cheese; Le Cendrillon Cheese; Le Veillon Cheese; Lymeswold Cheese; Mitzithra Cheese (Fresh); Oaxaca Cheese; Oxford Isis Cheese; Pavé de Chirac Cheese; Pié d'angloys; Pithiviers Cheese; Pont Couvert Cheese; Prescinseua Cheese; Saint-Loup Goat Cheese; Saint André Cheese; Soft Cheeses; Soumaintrain Cheese; Squacquerone Cheese; St-Nectaire Cheese; St Tola Cheese; Tarapatapom Cheese; Telemes Cheese; Teviotdale Cheese; Tornegus Cheese; Vacherin Chaput Cheese; Vacherin d'Abondance; Vacherin Mont d'Or; Wensleydale Cheese with Cranberries; Whirl Cheese

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Citation

Oulton, Randal. "Vacherin d'Abondance." CooksInfo.com. Published 10 July 2005; revised 30 June 2009. Web. Accessed 09/22/2017. <http://www.cooksinfo.com/vacherin-dabondance>.

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